France - Jacqueline Delaunay makes this superb Muscadet from 5 hectares of 20-year-old Melon Blanc vines grown on stony gneiss, amphibolite and schist soils. The estate is in organic conversion, using no chemicals or herbicides whatsoever, only grass as a cover crop. Vines are Guyot Nantais-trained and yield 45 hectolitres per hectare. Fermentation by ambient yeasts, found in the vineyards and on the cellar walls, takes place underground in special cement tanks lined with glass. This fermentation “à la Nantaise” is ideal for long aging because the underground temperature remains cool and constant, and the shape of the tank (with a flat and extended bottom) allows greater contact with the lees. The wine rests on its lees for 8-12 months, with bâtonnage 2-3 times over winter. This stirring of the lees gives the wine its appellation’s signature freshness, creaminess, and elegance. Domaine Delaunay’s charming rendition is at once saline and fruit-forward; perfumed and brooding; a unique expression of divinity. It is an enticing aperitif, and of course, a timeless pairing with oysters